Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Ben's Korean Adventures, edition 8

 Hello, hello.

2 full weeks with no writing from me, eh?  Whatever will you all do?  Probably read everything else that you need to read, I guess.  As life falls more and more into a rhythm, I find that I have fewer and fewer pressing things to write about, so you can expect a slow down at this point.  So today I've promised an email full of smaller interesting things things for you.  Here goes:

my only experiences with kindergartens came from my time at McKenny-Harrison Elementary and the subsequent time my siblings spent at that same school, so there've been a number of different things that happen here than what I'd expect from a kindergarten back home.  First, little boys and girls use the same bathrooms each day.  These are not segregated by sex, and I found that to be very interesting.  Granted, I haven't gone to all the bathrooms, but in the ones I've seen, there are both urinals and stalls so that either could be used.  Additionally, even though there's a bathroom on each floor, the only one that men can use is on the first floor.  Fortunately I work primarily on the second floor, so I don't have to go so far when I need to use it … and I'm also not nearly as hydrated these days, thus I find that I don't even have to go too often (oh, no … I'm becoming more and more like Aimee).  haha.  Ok, I think that may be my first inside joke here -- I've tried to steer clear of those throughout my writing so I'll explain: Aimee is a good friend and coworker from the Red Cross, and last year, there were many times when after we'd leave work she might use the bathroom and make some off-handed comment about how that was the first time for the day.  Some people might exaggerate here, but Aimee never did -- she literally hadn't used the bathroom before that point.  Now although I haven't reached that point yet, I feel that I'm getting closer and closer to falling into that downward spiral.  I will admit that I did bring along one smaller Nalgene with me, and I've taken to class a couple times, and the kids find it funny because either a) I have it attached to my belt with a carabiner, or b) they simply find it odd that I'm using that kind of bottle. 

Another difference: most of the bathrooms don't have hand-drying implements.  I don't think that any of them have air hand dryers, and I'm pretty sure that none have paper towels.  Instead, each student has a towel that hangs just inside the door, and after washing hands, the kid will come back and dry off before sitting down again.  This is really a great system, and I wish it would be adapted more widely back home, so if you can make such a thing happen, do it.  It's so much more efficient, cost effective and resourceful.  After lunch all students go and brush their teeth.  In a few different places around the city I've seen little UV sterilizing cabinets used.  Each class has one of those for tooth brushes, and all the students go and clean up after meals.  Again, this makes so much sense for the students … especially when they're in the class all day long and they spend so much time with the single group of kids.  Back home, we only had half days, so we were never there for a meal, thus I don't really know if other places would do this kind of thing.  Not only do students brush teeth, but so also do many of the teachers.  It's a good practice that many back home wouldn't go out of their way to do. 

What's next … crayons (which may technically be called colored pencils).  In each of my Haba classes each student has a set of crayons that we use for coloring, and it's not a box of crayons as we'd expect at home, but instead it's a pack of crayon-like colored pencils.  Basically, there's a long stick of crayon that runs down the center of a plastic shell, and one can twist the bottom end to make more crayon come out as the end is used.  In this way, the crayons are protected from breakage, and the kids don't get quite as messy when coloring.  I think it's a pretty sweet system.  Each student's pack also has a different theme … like one boy may have Power Rangers on his, while a different child may have Hello Kitty on hers.  Each pack somas with nearly the exact same set of colors (and I even bought one for myself … so I'm going over it right now): brown, black, purple, blue, sky blue, green, yellow green, yellow, peach, orange, pink and red.  I've also seen gold and silver in some packs.  Notice that I did specifically say "sky blue" and "yellow green" because that's what many kids know those colors as.  Now I remember having packs of Crayola crayons as a child, and I know that sometimes I would use the "super-duper-awesome-pack-of-more-colors-than-there-are-flavors-of-Jelly-Belly-jelly-beans" that had all the colors a kids could hope for -- and a few more, and maybe in a case like that I would differentiate between, oh, midnight blue and sky blue, but that only happened because the crayons all had labels.  Without those labels providing specific direction each time I picked up one of those crayons, I'm sure I would have simply distinguished one from the other with the basic "light blue/dark blue" terms.  But here, even without labels, the kids consistently use that much more specific term -- sky blue.  Now maybe this seems like such a triviality, and there's really no reason for me to have spent a whole, solid paragraph (short essay?) recounting this single issue, but here's what really interests me below the surface: I find it intriguing when I bump up against something that's common knowledge here -- even if what it's based on is actually something else back home … or in a place where English is the native language.

Here's another illustration: last week during cooking we made little bread pizzas.  We took sliced sandwich bread, added some pizzas sauce, threw on a couple veggies, ham and cheese and toasted it.  I did manage to burn my thumb during this whole endeavor, which was such an annoyance, but all in all it was great.  We only used 2 vegetables -- onions and paprika.  What?  Paprika's not a vegetable?  Oh, that's right, I mean pepper, or green bell pepper to be more specific.  Frankly, as I sit here in my apartment away from the Internet and type, I realize that I didn't look into the issue to verify that these aren't called paprika in British English, but regardless of the source, somewhere along the road many students and some Korean teachers here learned that bell peppers are called paprika.  I found that very interesting.  A little bit of my wanted to let the students still call the peppers paprika, but I quickly got over that impulse.  When we covered the ingredients, we definitely called them bell peppers.  I'm excited to keep encountering these little things, and I'll try to pass them along as I find more. 

Something else: air conditioning.  First, if you were to visit this area, I'm not sure if people would know what you're talking about if you said air conditioning or simply AC.  When in these parts, you should always say "Air Con."  That's the one and only name I've heard for air conditioning since I've been here.  At first I thought it was a brand name for the wall unit, but I've come to realize that that's simply what AC is called here.  Remember that for your next trip to Korea ;).  Also, I find this interesting: I haven't gone to many places yet that had a central air system (I'm sure those are used in bigger buildings, but I just haven't spent much time in those).  Most places I've visited (my motel room, school classrooms, my apartment bedroom, restaurants, etc) have wall-mounted air con machines.  In school, both at Haba and Oedae, there are a number of remotes that will work with any of the Air Con machines, and these units are easily turned on or off as the temperature in the room dictates.  At Oedae, because teachers visit multiple rooms among the different floors, each teacher actually has one remote assigned to him/her, such that, for example, when I first arrive each day, I'll grab my remote, and it will accompany me to my classes.  Usually I start the air con in my first class, but in the others, the machine is already running, and the class is nice and cool.  Now, I don't actually know how energy efficient it is to use this system throughout the building, but in a more practical day-to-day way, it seems pretty efficient -- when I go into a room and need to cool it down, I use the air con, but when I'm finished with that room or I don't need the cold any longer, I can simply stop the flow.  It seems to make sense to me, really. 

This last one may not be true for all of Korea, but in my experience with a half dozen of these, it's always held true, therefore I believe that: all elevator buttons respond more quickly in Korea than they do in America.  haha.  But seriously, you know how sometimes you step into an elevator (I did this a lot during my last year in GR because of my job at Van Andel where I'd go up and down elevators a dozen times or more each day), and because you're in a hurry you press the "close doors" button, and it still seems to take ages (truly, milliseconds) for the doors to actually close?  Yeah, that doesn't happen here.  Here, you step into an elevator, push the button and *bam* the doors slam shut … or at least they actually close then.  There was one day that some other teachers started to go up, and I tried to slip in before the doors shut, but I couldn't make it, and I was a little afraid that the doors might just crush my arm, so I quickly gave up and used the stairs.  Ultimately, it was for the better.  This is, of course, such a minor point … but isn't it usually those seemingly insignificant details that make the difference and the sell?  Yes, that is why I shared this with you -- so that you might revel with me each and every time the elevator actually listens to and follows my command.  Ah, so wonderful.  haha.

Ok, part of the reason it's taken me so long to write this message is that each time I sit down to spew forth these interesting tidbits, I've encountered that age-old rhetorician's bane -- writer's block.  I've tried to jot down notes when I encountered something, but I've exhausted all those things either here or in a previous email, so I'll leave you for today with a couple things from this past weekend: my most significant purchases since arriving and a cool trip I took on Sunday.

As of today (and yesterday, technically) I became the proud owner of a brand new refrigerator!  Yes!  The (now) old fridge in my apartment was a sorry excuse for a fridge because it could hardly hold condiments, some beverages and leftovers … let alone any real food, so I bit the bullet and bought a brand new machine.  I made the purchase yesterday, and it arrived today around lunchtime (and right now it's post-dinnertime), so I have already let it cool down and switched over all of my food.  I'm pretty stoked for this new addition to my place because now I can actually make food and store it.  And especially for any of you who've lived with me or eaten with my, I tend to make large meals, so having room for leftovers is a must.  As well as plenty of space for soup.  haha.  Yes!  Not only did I get the new fridge this weekend, but I also finally made a real shopping trip to the "farmers' market."  Really, there's one street where a bunch of local farmers (I assume they're farmers, at least) set up stalls and sell fresh fruit, veggies, eggs, meat, plants and a host of other goods.  On Saturday I stopped by there and bought some food from the woman on the corner.  It was such a great experience because I went there with about ₩25,000 (won ~$25), and I wanted to just pick up a few things.  I started with 3 carrots (by the way, these carrots are huge … so think of your average carrot back home and triple/quadruple the thickness), and as the woman packed up the carrots, she added a bunch of peppers to the bag as well.  As it turned out, that was the theme of my shopping with her.  I asked for one thing, and she gave me that and more, and it was all really reasonably priced.  I ended up spending only ₩15,000, and I walked away with carrots, red and green hot peppers, green peppers, vidalia onions, green onions, fresh garlic, a cucumber, 2 egg plants, potatoes, and a head of cabbage.  Bam.  Exactly.  That's shopping at its finest.  So I think that many of those things plus that really expensive beef I bought a while back are gonna become a great soup within the next few days.  And now I need not fear making too much soup at once!  Oh, which reminds me, in addition to the fridge, I also bought a bunch of new food storage containers.  Whew.  I'm very proud of all the things I can keep food in.  Does that make me a little lame?  Nope.  haha. 

Ok, on Sunday I went with Dianne to a tea shop outside of the city.  It ended up being about ½ an hour away, and after we left the city, the view was gorgeous.  I don't know how often I've said this before now, but Korea is a beautiful country -- especially when you get outside the city and see the more rural area.  From my past experiences, I could only compare the scenery to something I'd expect from Appalachia, and that's part of the States I like a lot.  Thus on this short trip there were lots of hills and forested areas and just beautiful things to see.  I didn't take many pictures of this simply because (a) my ability to capture things while moving in a car is absolutely terrible and (b) a picture definitely would not do justice to what was actually there.  Anyway, in the midst of this wondrous area was a small place off the beaten path.  The tea shop is run by a woman and her daughter, and they serve only green tea, and it's a very traditional tea experience.  When we first arrived we sat at a low table that had been made from part of a tree.  We actually sat on mats next to the table because it's not high enough off the ground for feet or legs underneath it, so we each sat cross-legged next to the table.  After we sat down, the daughter served tea for us the first time, so that we'd know how to do it ourselves, and then we spent time drinking tea, eating green tea rice cake and chatting.  Dianne didn't think that they grew the tea themselves, but wherever it came from, it was possibly the best tea I've ever had.  And I don't think my opinion is biased from the experience at all -- it was just that good.  As many of you know, I am a sucker for sweet things; I pretty much only have sweet teeth in my mouth, and I don't ever remember straight tea ever being this sweet and pleasant before.  Granted, I do primarily drink black teas, but still, the times I've had a green tea have never left as favorable an impression as this experience.  After we finished we walked around the grounds a little bit and into a small shop where the family also sells some tea-related and other things.  I saw traditional Korean womens' shoes for the first time and a bunch of pottery and tea sets around this little house, and it was pretty cool.  All in all, this was a great experience, and it was a perfect way to spend a relaxing Sunday!

Much love to you all.

pfn,
bg

ps- If you want to see some updated shots, please visit:

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Ben's Korean Adventures, edition 7

Hello everyone! 

Guess what?!  I'm experiencing my first typhoon right now (written Sunday night).  Isn't that exciting?  Today I actually went to church with Matt and Kristen for the first time (which was a fun experience, and I'll tell you more about that another day), and afterward we met up with a couple of their friends for lunch at a Thai restaurant in another part of town.  By the time we left church, the wind had picked up and rain began to lightly fall.  And as we finished our meal and departed the restaurant to commute back home, both the wind and the rain had really picked up.  Over the course of today, Matt and Kristen lost 3 umbrellas, and my umbrella experienced some damage as well.  Whew.  It was such a blustery day.  We'll see how tomorrow and the next day treat us, although I'm pretty sure that we'll keep getting more of what we had today. 

Let's see … nearly every time that I've chatted or talked with someone back home I've been asked, "How's the food?"  So today I want to address that -- at least in part.  Many Korean meals that I've had so far have included a few general things: 1. Kimchi, 2. Rice or Noodles, 3. Vegetables and/or Meat and 4. Sauce or Soup.  Now maybe this is using too broad of a brush stroke, but most of my meals have included something along those lines.  1. Kimchi - frankly, I still don't know much about how it's made, but I like the Kimchi more than I expected I would.  I'd had this a few times in the States, and it had always been full of cabbage and a spicy, bitter taste.  Since being here I've had that kind of kimchi again (and it still doesn't really appeal to me), but I've also had it with radish or cucumbers, which are both (in my estimation) much better versions.  I should also add that I've only had kimchi as a side dish; another one, while I'm on this topic, is radish.  I've had more radish in the past 3 weeks than I've had during the previous years and years of my life.  Ok, that's a slight exaggeration, but it's pretty close to true.  And I will say that this is probably one of my favorite things that I've eaten so far.  Sometimes it's pickled and little bitter, while other times it's served in a sweeter brine.  In both cases it's been delicious.  Mmmm. 

2. Rice or Noodles.  Yep, these serve as the base for pretty much any dish that you'll find over here.  I've yet to see an option that didn't include one of these or the other.  The Korean word for rice sounds like "bop" and noodles like "me-yun."  So often with food names, one of those will be the last part of the name.  For example, a quick, common food here is "kim bop", which is essentially a rice wrap … the one that I've gotten most often has a strip of carrot, a strip of radish, some tuna and something else down the middle, and it's then wrapped in rice with seaweed on the outside, I think.  For one who's not too familiar with either, it could be mistaken for a sushi log, although they are very different.  Another example is "jah jang me-yun" … aka black noodles.  I just had this for the first time on Saturday, and it was double delicious.  The sauce is very thick and pretty sweet, and it is black.  I had this meal with Dianne, and she passed along an interesting cultural tidbit that connects to this dish: February 14th is Valentine's Day, and here one would expect boyfriends to give gifts to their girlfriends.  One month later, on March 14th (aka- White Day), the opposite happens -- girlfriends give gifts to their significant others.  And then one month later still, on April 14th, comes Black Noodle Day (I don't remember if there was another name for this day), on which occasion all those who didn't receive gifts for either of the previous two special days together go and get Black Noodles to celebrate one another.  haha.  Especially after having this meal I decided that this is a fantastic idea, and even if for practically all of my life I'd be one of those celebrating the last of the three special days, I think this is one tradition wholly worth incorporating into American life.  So come next April, if any of you want to celebrate this day with me, let me know, and I'll make sure to send you a mix for some Black Noodles. 

3. and 4.  Obviously, eating only kimchi and rice/noodles for each meal would get repetitive pretty quickly, so all the dishes include an assortment of vegetables, meats, sauces, etc to compliment everything else.  That seems pretty expected.  Here, though, I'll mention something else: I have gone grocery shopping a few times, and each time I've been blown away by how much many things cost.  I came into this position under the false impression that food was going to be so cheap, and thus I had expected that I'd be cooking a lot.  As it turns out, though, nearly everything is at least as expensive if not more expensive than it was back home.  Granted I did live in Grand Rapids, which boasts a notoriously low cost of living, but still … everything?  Pretty much.  Combined, I'm pretty sure I've spent a couple hundred dollars on my in-the-house food.  Fortunately the school does provide lunch for all the teachers each day, and beyond that, going out to eat is actually very cheap around here.  There's one restaurant that I've gone to more than any other; it's called "kim bop naro."  (Remember that name from earlier … that rice roll?).  This place has been a great restaurant to have nearby.  It is basically a fast food equivalent for here, and it has a pretty big menu.  The best part of this restaurant, though, and the true selling point is this: its menu takes up a whole wall, and it's simply full of pictures and names.  Especially for those first few times that I went there, I would just look the food options, find one that seemed appealing and point it out to the waitress.  Usually it turns out pretty well.  I've only had trouble with this system once -- there was one day that I pointed to one dish, and after the waitress acknowledged my choice, I tried to point at it again to get her to say the name (so that I could try to order it by name next time), and I obviously tried to convey this request with both English words and some gesticulation, but it failed (although I didn't realize that at that moment).  In that exchange, she thought that I wanted both that item, and the one next to it, so when another waitress brought out my first dish, I gladly took it.  But then, when she tried to bring me another plate of food, I waved it away … until I realized that it was the dish that appeared next to my first item on the menu, so that meal I ended up eating more than I had anticipated, and I decided that the next time my curiosity spikes, I should just keep it in check and follow the safe route.  All this to say, many meals are really cheap, so this year I'll be eating out a lot, which ultimately isn't such a bad gig. 

Here are a couple more things about restaurants that I've found interesting: first, I've gone to a few places by now that had little buzzers on the table, such that whenever one needs a waiter/waitress, the person simply pushes the button to call someone.  I've never seen such a thing back in the States, and it really just reminds me of call buttons in hospitals.  I think it's really a great idea, and it'd be sweet to see those in wider use back home … although considering how picky and impatient Americans tend to be, perhaps it'd be more of a nightmare than it's worth.  Second, tipping doesn't happen here.  Apparently to leave a tip is actually more of a negative thing than it is a positive, complimentary action.  Granted, back in the States I'd wonder if one can technically call it a "positive, complimentary action" since it's now just expected to happen, but still … that's been a big difference here.  And that also applies to taxis or any other situation in which one would consider leaving a tip.  Ok, and here's a funny final story on the food topic … for now.  Each week, classes at Haba have a cooking day, when the class goes to a kitchen and prepares a food item.  It's a pretty sweet thing.  My first week we made a quick pasta salad, and during the second week students made a small kabob.  This kabob included some bacon, a cherry tomato and some rice cake.  During that time I was actually shadowing another teacher to see how her kids behave, and as she talked them through the cooking process, at once point she asked, "Where does bacon come from?"  And without skipping a beat, multiple students replied, "America."  haha.  and oooohhhh (sad sound).  After a few more wrong answers, Brooke coaxed the answer she'd been searching for (pigs), but I found it hilarious and a little sad that these kids would think their bacon came from the States.  Bacon is cheap enough back home that I could get it whenever i wanted to, but still … is that the kind of impression we should be giving the world?  We're known for producing/eating really fatty meat.  That kind of interaction makes me stop and wonder. 

I will write more about my food adventures as they come up.  I've tried to take pictures of most dishes I've had and write down the names, or others have taken pictures for me.  Look forward to those in the near future.  On to the next topic: baseball!  Korea's been full of so many firsts for me, and going to a professional/major league baseball game is another one of those.  I've gone to a handful of minor league games, but this was my first time with a bigger match.  Baseball's a pretty big thing around here, and one of my coteachers, Darrell, is really into it as well.  I went to the game with him and another new teacher, Brian (this Brian's different than the one I replaced).  Granted, I don't know home many MLB teams are in the States, but there aren't too many in Korea, so all of the teams end up playing one another quite a few times each season.  The home team is the Kia Tigers, and they played against another team that's apparently really, really bad.  Our pitcher ended up throwing a shut out, and the game ended with a 2-0 score.  That one pitcher was in all 9 innings, so it was an interesting game to see, although there wasn't much action on the field beyond the strike outs and occasional small hits.  The real action was happening outside the fence and in the stands.  The stadium was full from top to bottom, and after that game, I can understand why.  The Tigers have one person who's essentially their head cheerleader.  This guy has his own jersey with number "V11" printed on the back, and throughout the whole game, he does lead cheers.  Each player on the team has his own theme song, which seems to be a well known tune that they've altered to include the player's name.  These songs are played when the person comes up to bat or when some other good thing happens.  For example, the pitcher's song came on each time he struck out another batter.  Now, mind you, when this happens fans don't just sit and listen; nay!  Fans stood up nearly every time the Tigers were at bat, and they sing/move along with all the songs.  There's some clapping and arm waving involved with all the songs, and it's great.  Ha.  In addition to the head cheerleader, there were 4 women wearing more typical cheerleader outfits and one tiger mascot in a jersey as well.  This team of enthusiasts really brought the game to life, and I found that quite a few times, I missed some play because I was much more enthralled by the performers than the players.  Also, right around "half time" there was a race on the field.  Four people in large cushioned cars came out and raced from 3rd base, around home, to 1st.  The cars bumped into one another and blocked and fell, and it was pretty funny to watch.  I will upload one video to Facebook with a shot from the cheering time; in that one clip I caught the mascot leading the chant, but know that most often V11 took that role.  One final interesting thing about this game, or games in general: many people brought a lot of food and drinks in with them to the game.  There little stores/shops where one could buy beverages and food, but quite a few (our group included) brought in coolers with things from outside.  This, along with so many other situations here, simply reminds me that life in Korea is often much more relaxed and carefree than it is back home. 

Ok, and now I've reached my final topic: the beach!  I've decided that I've been pretty spoiled over the last few years having lived in Grand Rapids and being so close to the Lake.  We ended up driving about 2-2.5 hours away to reach a small beach along the southern coast.  Here's another first: this was my first time swimming in an ocean.  Woo hoo.  It was a blast.  That first time I plunged under the water to come up and taste salt on my lips was pretty phenomenal.  Before then I had, I think, dipped my feet in the Atlantic, but I'd not done any more than that, so this was a pretty sweet experience.  We arrived at the beach around 10:30 or so, and when we got there, the tide was out such that the water was very shallow, and there was a very long beach.  It was so amazing to me to see how much that changed by the time we left.  The water level had nearly doubled by that point because whereas when we first went into the water and walked out to some buoys, the water just barely went over the top of my shorts, while when we went out later, had we gone all the way to those same buoys, the water would have been over my head.  This kind of tide action is completely new to me, and I like it.  Seeing other Koreans at the beach was pretty amusing as well.  We (Matt, Kristen and I) were the only apparent foreigners on the beach, and beyond us, only a handful of other men weren't practically fully clothed.  People here are very concerned with getting sun, so many of the people, regardless of how wet they got, wore long sleeve and pants and hats or other head scarves and lots of other clothes.  We all lathered up well with sun screen, and although some burns still managed to get through, I doubt that any of us would opt for the full-body protection that the Koreans chose.  Additionally, here are two more interesting things: first, the Koreans also really liked inner tubes.  Never have I gone to a beach nor seen pictures of one that had more people just floating around in the water or playing with the tubes.  At one point we retrieved a stray tube and used it to stand up and jump off of into the water.  This part of the trip was funny because we also took turns climbing onto one another's shoulders and jumping off, and we created quite the spectacle.  I don't remember exactly what I heard, but there was one point when I jumped/fell off the tube (after having balanced on it for mere moments), and someone nearby said, "Amazing" or something very similar.  Matt said he heard it too, and we both had a nice chuckle.  Second, quite a few people go to the beach and bring along tents that they set up just behind the beach.  There was a nice wooded area behind the beach, and there were camping tents all through that part.  Some of these people would stay a night, while others might just set up their spot for the day.  Our beaches back home just aren't set up in a manner that's conducive to this kind of camping, so I found this to be kind of cool.  Oh, and I just remembered on more thing: one the edge of this beach (in a perfect spot for when the tide's high) stood a long row of permanent beach umbrellas.  They were made of metal and had straw-ish tops, and they were just there for general use.  Had we not had that umbrella, I'm sure that all of us would have been toasted because I, for one, spent any time outside the water under that shaded area.  I think that having this kind of umbrella on a beach is brilliant.  For those of you still around the Great Lake, you should make something like this happen … it'll improve your beach experience tenfold. 

Ok, it's now a little after my bedtime, so I think I'll bring this to a close.  As I do this, though, I want to let you know about another thing you can check out: my google map.  Just a few days ago I tried to find my city on Goolge Maps, and I found it alright.  I was able to zoom pretty close to my specific neighborhood, so I set up a shared map with markers to point out some of the things/places I've mentioned in my emails.  You can follow this link to find the map: http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=201541342930874185138.0004a9c322f33423710bd&msa=0.  Now, as far as I know, none of you should be able to change anything about it, so it should be safe for you to hold onto this link and use it anytime.  I'll try to keep it updated with markers for the things that I do/places I go, so feel free to check it out and get a better idea of what it's like where I currently am.  Right now it points out my apartment, my schools, my motel from those first few days, the beach, and we'll see what else I can throw on there.  For those of you unfamiliar with this kind of map, you should be able to follow the link and see a map with little blue "push pins" in various spots.  On the left side of the page you should also see a list of all the locations, and you can click on either the pins or the list names to see a quick description of the item.  Hopefully this will work well, and you'll all get to know my world a little bit better.

Also, I just found a letter that has the right line spacing for my address.  Here's what you could use:
Ben Graves
#403, 1185-4 Pungam Odong
Seo-Gu
Gwangju 502-778
Korea, Republic of

Alright.  I'm out for now.  I wish you all the best, and know that you have my love and thoughts.  Next time look forward to an email full of random things that should keep you chomping at the bit to come visit Korea for yourself.

Much love to you all.

pfn,
bg

ps- if you want to see some of the food I've experienced thus far, visit:
or
if you want to see a few shots from the health check, visit:
or
if you want to see the baseball game or the beach, visit:

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Ben's Korean Adventures, edition 6

What a wonderful day to be writing you all! 

I don't think I mentioned this before (when I described my apartment), but I do have air conditioning in one room -- my bedroom, so a couple days ago a rearranged a few things and moved the leather chair in next to my bed, so I'm currently writing to you from the comfort of this chair and the coolness of my bedroom.  It's great.  I also just finished off a bowl of some curry cabbage soup that didn't turn out very well at all … but since I paid for the ingredients and I poorly put them together, I'm making myself suffer through.  Whew.  So far my cooking has been too great, although earlier today I made a breakfast scramble with potatoes, fresh garlic, green onions, cherry tomatoes, eggs and some salt and pepper for seasoning.  Mmm.  It was great.  I'll probably end up eating that a lot.  haha.  That's the way it goes, though.  Also, before I write about anything else, I want to make a quick caveat: my opinions about things are obviously stemming from only 2 weeks here and lots of random observations and/or conversations; we'll see how things change as I stay here longer, but bear that in mind when I'm making generalizations throughout this post … and most any other, for that matter.

Last Saturday I did begin learning Korean.  Woo hoo!  Dianne took me to a bookstore Saturday morning, helped me find an appropriate textbook, and spent a few hours that day going through material with me.  Each time I pick up a book here I think, "Ah, it'll be so great to be able to read this!" But then I remember how much work it's going to take, and I have to put it in perspective -- maybe I'll get to that book someday.  In the bit of studying I've done so far, I'm slowly realizing various nuances of the language, and so far here are the two things that will be most interesting to figure out: 1. the way it's written and 2. the way some letters are pronounced. 

Ha.  I guess those are two basic components of any language, no?  So what I mean is this: in English and Spanish and French (the languages I've studied up until this point), characters (letters) are written horizontally, one next to another.  These letters, taken together, make words.  In Korean, however, the simplest characters are vowels and consonants (these characters have their own sounds), and letters come from combining those, and then those letters form words.  So in these letters, one would always find at least one consonant and at least one vowel.  For a letter that only sounds like a vowel, there's even a consonant that has no sound when it comes first.  When there's only a single pairing of consonant and vowel, the two will be side by side or one above the other, but when you add another sound to the mix, the third one will usually go below the other two.  Let's say, for example, you were just writing my name, Ben.  You would have a consonant for b, a vowel for eh and a consonant for n.  So this time, the first two would be written side by side with the n consonant written below.  In general, I've always thought that Chinese/Japanese/Korean writing looked really cool, but now I've begun to understand how this works, I'm even more amazed and intrigued by this language. 

As far as pronunciation is concerned, I find this interesting because there are some sounds that I'm not always able to distinguish from other similar ones, and there are times when I simply don't know how a certain consonant should be pronounced in a particular word.  Here's an example (and I'll even try to throw in some Korean characters here … we'll see if they work when I make this into an email): ㅂ is supposed to make a very soft b/p sound; ㅍ is supposed to make a p sound and ㅃ is supposed to make a stronger b sound.  For the sake of this example, here's the last sound in question: the vowel ㅏ, which sounds like ah.  The Korean word for rice is pronounced like bahp.  How do you think it's written?  Which characters would you use?  Of course you'd use ㅂand ㅏ, but what about that last sound?  You actually use ㅂ again.  I can't use this writing to actually put it together as it should be, but if you'd use an online conversion tool, I'm sure you can see how it appears.  So this is the kind of thing I'm encountering that makes it harder to learn the language.  It's hard not only because when I try to read a Korean word I might not say it correctly, but it's also hard because when I try to listen to other speakers and conceptualize how the word is written, I end up using the wrong consonants.  All this to say, this will be quite the process, and I'm looking forward to the reward of being able to read a book here. 

Here are three little things that connect to this language thing that I found interesting or funny: 1. I want to make flash cards to learning vocabulary, so I went to a couple local supermarkets, and after walking around their school/supply sections, I found nothing that even vaguely resembles index cards or pre-made flash cards.  I haven't yet conferred with my Korean coteachers, but maybe no one here uses index cards?  I don't know.  I'll let you know when I find out because that's one of those staple items that I'd expect to find anywhere.  And since I couldn't even find some tagboard/card stock, I ended up buying a couple larger watercolor notebooks (that have heavier paper), and I'm in the process of cutting up all the pages to make my flash cards.  I had no idea that this would be such a process.  2. Yesterday, when I was at the first supermarket, I went to the book section, and it was interesting to look for books that I knew because all the books not only are written in Korean, but they also have different covers (sometimes very different covers) than what I'm used to.  Also, a number of the books were broken up into smaller books.  I don't know if this is unique to this situation (ie- sometimes bigger books are made into smaller ones, but one can still find them as a single, larger book elsewhere … or this always happens), but both the Harry Potter and Percy Jackson books were split up into smaller volumes.  Each Potter book was split into 2, and I wasn't really sure how the Percy Jackson books were separated; I would be they were halved as well, but I couldn't readily tell.  3. Today, when I went to a different supermarket (it more closely resembled a mall actually), I recognized my first Korean word from a side conversation.  A woman walked by and said, "Mother" when she was … you got it … addressing her mother.  And in that moment that I (over)heard and understood, I wanted to give a victorious fist pump and exclaim to the world (or at least all those within earshot), "Yes!  I can do this!"  But I didn't.  Probably because the vast majority wouldn't have understood me anyway.  And who wants to exclaim such an important thing when no one will get it?  I don't.  haha.  That was definitely a highlight of my day.  (how fitting … it's vaguely reminiscent to a child saying "mama" for the first time, isn't it?  oh, how important mothers are to the world!)

One of the funniest things I've encountered here so far has to be Korean driving.  haha.  I can't help but chuckle when I even start thinking about what I can write.  There are street lights and stop signs and things like that, but it seems that from time to time, those things (and quite a few road rules that I learned when starting to drive) just aren't followed.  Mind you, as I write this, I have yet to see an accident or any sign of a vehicular collision, and I've always felt safe when riding with others, but it's just a world of difference from what I've seen before.  In the last email I mentioned the "Korean standoff," which is a term that a couple of my coworkers passed along to me.  Quite a few of the streets near my apartment and schools are pretty narrow, and when cars park along both sides of the street, it becomes essentially a one way -- or at least a one way at a time -- path.  There are times (and I've witnessed so many already) when one person will just start turning onto one of these streets, and as they turn, they realize that another car is already on the street and should be exiting soon.  Most times this has happened that second car is practically upon the first as the first makes their turn.  Now at this point, both cars stop, and truly, there's just barely enough room for them to squeeze past one another … but it'll be a super, super close fit, and when both drivers realize this, they begin to creep up to try to get past the other person.  And both drivers will keep slowly, slowly creeping up until they finally pass.  And this whole exchange could take a couple minutes (probably not that long, really, but in "in the car time" you know how it always feels longer).  The thing is, if that first driver would reverse a foot or two, the second car could pass, and everything would so much faster and more smoothly, but I have yet to see a time when either driver decides to back up, give ground and yield that first pass.  It's such a strange thing.  I'll try to get a good picture of this to illustrate, but I don't seem to have my camera handy when I see it happening. 

Koreans seem to be very aggressive drivers, but as I write this, I want to draw a very clear distinction between the driving style here and the one back home.  Back home, it seems that aggressive drivers often are just one step away from road rage.  I tend to be a pretty calm driver, but there have been times when another driver would legitimately do something stupid, and I'd be pissed for a while.  American drivers tend to get angry when another driver cuts them off or steals the right of way or does some other such thing, and they tend to hold grudges, which is the key to road rage.  Here, though, I would be really surprised to actually see that kind of thing pop up.  It seems that because the aggressive driving is so common and expected from other drivers, these kinds of things that would really irk an American driver, just rolls off the shoulder of a Korean counterpart.  We'll see how my time here shapes this perception, but right now it seems to hold water.  Even after the standoff happens, the drivers just go their separate ways.  No giving the finger.  No yelling profanity (that I'm aware of, at least).  Even when a taxi driver jacks a red light or just goes blazing through.  haha.  Such amusing times. 

So for this job, I do have to have my resident alien card, and Don waited until all the new teachers arrived (since there are 4 of us) before starting the process to get the alien cards.  This past Monday we went to a local hospital to get our health exams … just to make sure we're good enough to be here, and this was another amusing experience.  We arrived and Don had to fill out all the forms for us, so we handed over our passports because none of us can write Hangul (the written Korean language).  Then we were shepherded to one hallway where most of the exams happened.  One one side in a room a nurse took our vitals, while in another room on the other side, they tested our hearing and vision.  One the vision chart, I couldn't make out the very last line of small print.  boo.  And the hearing test was funny; it seemed to be the mass produced kind of test.  The nurse only tested one side at a time, and in the same intervals, the pitch slowly went down such that if I had wanted, I might have been able to fake slightly better hearing … just by continuing to push the button when I should have heard it.  It wasn't anything like the back and forth for varying amounts of time kind of hearing test I've been accustomed to.  Also, just in case you cared to know, measured up at 190.2 cm, which means I'm still just shy of 6'3".  Bummer.  haha.  After that we received chest x-rays, a urine test and a blood draw.  The x-ray was interesting as well; it was the fastest I've ever gotten an x-ray.  Essentially I stepped into the room, the nurse adjusted the backer/plate/whatever it is to my height, pushed me up against it and zap! it was done.  The speed here blew my mind; I was in and out in 90 seconds I'd bet.  Urine tests are also funny to me, which brings me to this general comment: some things around here just seem very open and public.  Of the 4 new teachers, 3 are men.  So when we were given the cups and vials for urine, we were just sent to a multi-stall bathroom and told to put some pee in both.  The cup didn't have a lid, and when we went into the bathroom, we chatted a bit about racing to finish.  I definitely came in last place -- for both speed and productivity.  A couple days before, Don had told us not to have breakfast before going … because of the x-ray, and in typical Ben style, come Monday morning, for some weird reason, I thought, "I better not drink any water either … it might mess up something."  haha.  I completely forgot the urine test, but fortunately the gods or fate or karma were on my side because I was able to squeeze out just enough.  And then we brought the cup and text tube back into the blood draw room, and we set them on a single tray with other open samples.  Talk about faith that one won't mess with a sample before bringing it back.  And then came the blood draw.  For this we individually sat down at a table for a nurse to take a small syringe of blood.  Here's what stuck out the most, though: neither that nurse nor any other person handling the blood behind the desk (whom I could see) was wearing gloves or face masks or other kinds of protective gear.  Whew.  Talk about awesome safety standards.  Also, there was a really sketchy looking shards container on the desk next to us when we had the blood drawn.  If I didn't have any diseases going into that room, I've probably contracted something now.  haha.  I kid.  But I truly wonder how often one of the nurses has a problem and might encounter some contaminated sample. 

Ok.  I think that brings it to a close for today.  Next time look forward to some thoughts on food, Korean baseball and beaching it up (as long as the weather holds out tomorrow, that is).

Much love to you all.

pfn,
bg

ps- This week has been a vacation week, and since I don't have internet access at home, and I can't use the school's internet either this week, I've been slow at adding more pictures.  Next week I'll get some more shots up for you all.

Monday, August 1, 2011

Ben's Korean Adventure, edition 5

Hello today!

Since there were so many comments about my flurry of posts within my first week, I decided to take a bit of a break … give you all some time to catch up before I give you something new.  Hopefully this has been enough … otherwise, suck it up!  haha.  Actually, I've been keeping very busy, and right now I'm vacation (this whole week; woo hoo!), so I'm trying to get a little caught up with some writing that I've been wanting to do. 

Quite a few people asked more questions about school, so today I want to write about that specifically.  Now that I've got a week under my belt, I feel much better about how things are going and will continue to go, although there have been some bumps along the way. 

First, my school is a private language school, so we teach English; that's all that we focus on.  Granted, there are time when we'll be teaching something else (like a little sex education, if you remember my other post), but that's simply used as another vehicle for connecting kids with their destination -- higher proficiency in English, both written and spoken.  I've talked with both Don and Dianne, one of the Korean coteachers (who's great, by the way), about the schools over here, and apparently not as many kids study English as I thought.  I'm not sure of the exact percentage, but it's not most apparently.  And especially at my school, which may be one of (if not) the most expensive private schools in Gwangju, kids are here because their families have the ability to pay for our instruction.  Knowing this and knowing that I am teaching one of the intensive classes has made me really try to evaluate what I'm doing, so that I know I'm doing the best I can.  So Haba and Oedae really do have the reputation for being exceptional schools, and that draws in our students. 

I still don't have a good understanding of the difference between the public and private schools (as far as what they teach in English), but I've heard time and again that teachers at the public schools tend to have a lighter teaching load than do their private school counterparts.  I even ran into one guy this past weekend who claimed that in the past 3 or 4 weeks he's only taught 30-35 hours in the class at his public school, and due to this, if I decide to stick around, I should really go to a public school instead of staying with the hogwan because that's so much better.  Unfortunately he was pretty drunk when we had this brief chat, so I don't think he really picked up on my sarcastic approval of his situation, although fortunately his state did afford me the opportunity to easily end our conversation almost as quickly as it began.  One of these days I'll have a good interaction with a public school teacher, and I'll give you all the lowdown on our differences and similarities. 

Back to my schools … my classes include both boys and girls.  In Edison class, I have 6 boys and 6 girls.  I can't remember exactly off the top of my head, but it's a pretty even split between the sexes in all of my classes.  And both little Korean boys and little Korean girls are very nice and very loving.  It seems that nearly every day, whether it happens in the class or in a hallway, I'm mobbed by a group of little kids.  It's great.  I was talking with Aimee over video chat, and I think I said it something like this: every day I'm reaffirmed that I'm pretty much the next best thing to sliced bread … and it brings up my ego each time only a little bit.  haha.  But really, I will probably say time and again that these kids are great, and part of that is their, but another part of that stems from the culture of and atmosphere in this school.  I did ask Dianne about that as well, the intimacy between teacher and student at this school, and apparently there was a problem with that a few years ago, but in general, kids and teachers do simply become very close in this school, and I, for one, am very thankful for that.  I think this aspect of the school, in particular, has been one of the most appealing -- especially during this time of integration into a new way of living. 

This past weekend, for the first time yet, a feeling of isolation really began to set in.  I'm the sort of person who will all of a sudden put 2 and 2 together, only to realize that 4's been standing in my view all along.  There was one point on Sunday when I had just gone grocery shopping and came back to put things away/clean up when I realized that unlike any other place I've lived, I can't just invite friends or family over for a quick meal like I've done before.  Obviously I knew before yesterday that this couldn't happen, but it just hit at that moment that most (what an understatement … more like 99%) of the people I know back in the States will never see my home here.  And that thought's weird to me.  In fact, it's as foreign to me as I am to my Korean neighbor.  Well look at this, even I'm subject to a little home sickness.  haha.  So, how does this connect to the school?  I feel that the way the students and my fellow teachers have reached out and connected with me has, with a doubt, been instrumental in helping me replace the loneliness that would normally appear -- before it even began to set in.  I feel that already, after not even 2 weeks here, I'm connecting with kids in such a way that they're helping my transition more than they can possibly know. 

The afternoon classes have been a different experience altogether.  I have three classes each Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and one of those meets on Tuesday and Thursday as well.  One of my classes has been nothing but a delight so far; the students are well behaved and pleasant, and I enjoy seeing them each time.  The next class has been on edge a couple of times, but in general, this class has also been great.  These students enjoy learning new things, and although they lose focus from time to time, they typically stay on task and keep things lively.  The last class has been the biggest struggle.  In this class of 8, I do have an equal number of boys and girls, and these boys seem to be wildest ones around.  After talking with Dianne about this for a bit, I think that when I stepped into this class I did so with the mindset that I could be both friend and teacher simultaneously, and that attitude has worked with my other two classes, but in this one, I need to reassert my … or really, just establish my control over the class.  I alluded to crushing students' wills to be unruly in a previous post, and this is where that happened.  At the end of the week before last (on my first solo day), I pulled aside the boys and told them that I needed them to be more attentive and well behaved in class.  This past week I confiscated a couple toys and took one of the boys into the hallway for a one on one chat.  He was fine for the rest of that day, but it seemed to do little to affect the other boys.  Next week will be interesting with these boys for they will see that I will teach them English, and even if takes lots of frustration and some belief that I'm a really mean person, we'll get this into place.  I do think that this class, with the proper respect for what we're supposed to be doing and covering, could be the most fun because the students are witty and funny and enjoyable, but they have to discern when to do what and follow through for it to be fun for any of us. 

Back to Haba … last week Thursday and Friday were a little different than normal; the 5 and 6 year olds (which are most of my students) has their "Camp," which meant that they essentially when on some field trips and got to spend the night at the school Thursday.  Because the kids were there overnight, all the foreign teachers went and read bedtime stories to them.  I got to read to all three of my classes (Rainbow, Sun and Edison), and I read We're Going on a Bear Hunt, and the book definitely got much better with each successive read.  If you haven't read this book, you should look into it because it's lots of fun.  By the last time I walked around the class a bit and acted out what we were doing.  It seemed that the kids enjoyed it more as well that time than the others did during earlier reads.  I will say that reading books to kids is one of my favorite things to do, so this has been a great part of my experience so far, since I end up reading at least one book each day.

Ok, I think this is probably enough for now.  Tune in next time for more about language learning, insights in the "Korean standoff" and my first trip to a doctor here. 

Much love to you all.

pfn,
bg

ps- I haven't been taking too many new pictures, but if you're able to check Facebook, some others of my have been tagged recently.  There's one of me with the Edison class, and some others of my first experience with cold Korean noodles.  Who would've thought that eating noodles might involve ice cubes as well.  I didn't … until now.